Tag Archives: fishing village

After Cleopatra

Jess Walter’s Beautiful Ruins (Harper, $25.99) opens on the shores of a quiet 1962 Cinque Terre fishing village, where we meet Dee Moray, a beautiful (fictional) American movie starlet fresh from the extravagant movie set of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s Cleopatra. Her arrival is hailed by a local as “a burst of clarity from a lifetime of sleep,” a catalyst that sparks the whole tangled cast of characters into action.

We follow these characters—Italian hotel attendants, Hollywood power players, a shell-shocked American writer, and a washed-up rock star named Pat—through 40 years, as the effects of their decisions ripple though the lives of those around them. Pat is an idiot, but lovably so, with an unfortunate predisposition toward misadventure. his girlfriend is irritatingly altruistic in her attempts to save those around them from drowning in Pat’s wake. a young hotel proprietor is perfectly Italian, driven by the pursuit of honor and beauty. Walter’s Richard Burton would seem dangerously cartoonish if his drunken foibles weren’t so spot-on. and Walter maintains a similar delicate balance with his villainous Michael Dean, a fictitious Hollywood executive with a decades-long appetite for money, success, and plastic surgery.

Ruins connects these lives through multiple substories, sometimes written by the characters themselves. these little tidbits masterfully illustrate the motives behind characters’ actions and they fit within a perfectly executed framework, jumping from era to era to keep readers’ emotions on hold for the next scene in the book. This nonlinear mechanism runs the risk of being schizophrenic, a potential warren of diverging and unusable rooms and branches. Instead, Walter tells his story elegantly, the intertwined time lines giving credence and depth to the characters.

Walter’s words are precise brushstrokes, echoing the appropriate rhythm of each location: the isolated Italian village where “feral cats poked around the piazza”; cutthroat Hollywood in the early morning hours, “before Benzes and BMWs nose onto palmed streets and the blue-toothed sharks resume their endless business.” Walter transports his readers into swanky post–World’s Fair Seattle for mai tais at the now-defunct Trader Jim’s, and then nestles down into the comforting predictability of small-town America.

In the beginning of Ruins, the young hotel proprietor stands chest-deep in seawater on the shores of Cinque Terre, “tossing rocks the size of cats” and trying desperately to be taken seriously. his actions—and those of all the people in this book—are serious by virtue of their human qualities. Beautiful Ruins is satisfying and delicate, a spectacular story of love, frustration, selfish intent, and the patience of the human heart.

After Cleopatra

Five safe Mexican escapes

Article by Travel Section, on Sunset.com

Despite recent drug-related violence in Mexico, this long-loved vacation getaway is still safe to visit – with caveats

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Best places to visit

1. San Miguel de Allende. There’s plenty to do in this hill town, like take a cooking class or listen to Cuban music (thisweekinsanmiguelallende.com), and hotels like the Matilda and the Rosewood opened in the past year. there have been isolated attacks on American expats; none has targeted tourists.

2. Puerto Vallarta/Sayulita. The spasms of drug violence in areas surrounding Puerto Vallarta do not seem to have affected the beach city itself. Try Hacienda San Angel, a lovely boutique hotel set among bougainvillea-traced villas in the terra-cotta-tiled downtown. Go north to visit beautiful Sayulita, a onetime fishing village colonized by surfers and expats.

3. Mexico City. A world-class city off too many travelers’ radars. Street crime is more of a problem here than in U.S. cities, but follow a few rules—i.e., never hail a cab from the street; don’t carry a lot of cash or credit cards, and keep them hidden—and you should be fine. A clutch of new boutique hotels (Hotel Brick is one of the latest), along with excellent restaurants (we’ll single out Pujol), are a welcome counterpoint to days immersed in street life. Catch young artists at the Kurimanzutto gallery.

4. Oaxaca. Still a colonial jewel. The city’s cobbled streets, particularly its main drag, Macedonia Alcalá, are lined with museums, stores, and galleries. outside the city, the Zapotec archaeological sites of Monte Albán and Mitla are grand and mysterious. Occasional outbreaks of civil unrest (like student protests) are not directed at tourists, but they can make getting around impossible. Check the newspapers.

5. Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. you may see caravans of police officers holding guns, as there has been violence here in the past, but very rarely has it targeted tourists. The resort town of Ixtapa has wide beaches, high-rise hotels (like architectural gem Las Brisas Ixtapa), and golf. But for flavor, try Zihua—still a fishing village—where a stroll along the bayside malecón is pure honky-tonk. Forty minutes north is the charming surf town of Troncones.

Los Cabos/Todos Santos. The luxury resorts of the Cabos corridor are the place to spot Hollywood royalty, but the real reason to visit Cabo is to peel off its California veneer and disappear into the extraordinary desert landscape and unspoiled coast. to the east, there’s the Sea of Cortez and the East Cape, known for its diving. on the Pacific side, Todos Santos is a haven for surfers and artists.

Photo by Thomas J. Story

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Five safe Mexican escapes